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I recently took on the challenge of modifying the Yanaka Jacket pattern to include pockets, and I’m excited to share my experience with all of you. It all started after I finished my first Yanaka Jacket. While I loved the overall design, I quickly realized that one crucial element was missing: pockets! As someone who constantly needs to carry their phone, keys, and wallet, this was a must-have for me.
I began by experimenting with the pattern pieces. Laying my phone horizontally across the front pattern piece, I discovered that even the smallest size had enough space to accommodate my phone with some room to spare. From there, I carefully drafted the pocket pieces by tracing below the lengthen/shorten line. Initially, the pockets turned out a bit taller than I intended, so I adjusted them based on my phone's dimensions and scraps of leftover fabric. I left just enough extra at the top to create a neat folded facing.
Once the pocket pieces were finalized, I sewed them onto the main front piece during the initial steps of construction. Treating the pocket and front as one piece made the rest of the process smooth sailing. The instructions for the Yanaka Jacket flowed beautifully, and soon I had a jacket with functional yet discreet pockets.
For the fabric, I chose a quilted Merchant & Mills cotton jacquard from Needles Studio for the exterior and paired it with a soft flannel from Maker Mountain Fabrics for the lining. While the fabric is slightly more drapey than what the pattern suggests, it gave the jacket an unexpectedly cozy feel. However, because the material isn’t very stiff, my collar droops a bit instead of standing upright as it should. Additionally, my chosen fabric combination was on the thicker side, resulting in slightly less wearing ease compared to my original version.
Adding the lining was an afterthought, but it significantly enhanced the jacket’s comfort and durability. To create the lining, I traced a new front piece, transferred the facing details, and added seam allowances. For the rest of the lining, I used the original pattern pieces as they were. The entire process went smoothly, and the end result was well worth the effort.
The best part? The pockets blend seamlessly into the jacket, providing functionality without detracting from the overall design. Plus, the cut-on sleeves and sleeve gussets ensure a perfect fit without the hassle of setting in sleeves—a personal pet peeve of mine!
If you're thinking about adding pockets to your Yanaka Jacket, I highly recommend giving it a try. It’s a small modification that makes a big difference. And if you’re unsure about the fabric choice, trust your instincts—sometimes the unexpected combinations lead to the most delightful results.
Let me know in the comments if you’ve ever modified a pattern before or if you’re inspired to give this a shot yourself. Happy sewing!