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I recently took on the challenge of modifying the Yanaka Jacket pattern to include both a lining and functional pockets. As someone who always looks for practicality in my sewing projects, I couldn’t help but notice that the original pattern lacked this essential feature. So, after completing my first version of the Yanaka Jacket, I knew exactly what needed to be added—pockets!
My journey began when I placed my phone horizontally over the pattern pieces while cutting them out. To my delight, even the smallest size provided ample space to create a pocket large enough for my phone. It’s rare to find patterns where petite sizes accommodate such features, so I seized the opportunity.
To draft the pocket design, I traced the front pattern piece starting from the lengthen/shorten line downwards. However, I soon realized the initial height was a bit excessive. Using my phone as a guide and experimenting with leftover fabric scraps, I adjusted the dimensions until I achieved the perfect size with just enough extra at the top to fold over for a clean finish. Once satisfied, I basted the pocket pieces onto the main front piece during the early stages of construction, treating them as one unit thereafter.
For the outer fabric, I chose a cozy quilted Merchant & Mills cotton jacquard sourced from Needles Studio, paired with a soft flannel lining from Maker Mountain Fabrics. While the fabric proved slightly more drapey than expected, it still created a warm and comfortable jacket. However, the combination of these fabrics resulted in a thicker material, reducing the wearing ease compared to my initial version without lining.
The sewing process itself went smoothly once I had the pocket design sorted out. Following the pattern instructions for the main jacket was straightforward, and adding the lining turned out to be a manageable task. I simply traced a new front piece, transferred the facing details, and adjusted the seam allowances to complete the lining. The other pieces remained unaltered, ensuring consistency between the outer and inner layers.
One of the highlights of this project was seeing how seamlessly the pockets integrated into the front piece. They offer functionality without detracting from the overall aesthetic, avoiding any unnecessary horizontal lines that could disrupt the design. Additionally, the cut-on sleeves and sleeve gussets contributed to an excellent fit, eliminating the hassle of setting in sleeves—a personal pet peeve when working on jackets.
Reflecting on the experience, I’m incredibly pleased with the outcome. The Yanaka Jacket now serves as both a stylish and practical garment, tailored to my specific needs. If you’re considering making this pattern, I highly recommend incorporating pockets—it truly elevates the functionality of the jacket. Happy sewing!