Buyers' Shanghai Fashion Week, the power of design

Domestic fashion industry seems to have ushered in the "best time" in the process of constantly expanding the pattern and exploring the depth. Shanghai Fashion Week, which is the strength of the show, is a leafy scene - the gathering of outstanding designers has attracted the attention of many international fashion designers. It has also been separated from the original regional labels in its design. A more mature design level and a more unique design attitude. Shanghai Autumn/Winter 2017 Fashion Week takes the theme of “Poetic Technology”. The participating brands are presenting their works in a pioneering and creative way. The poetic culture and technological innovations are corresponding to each other. As the Shanghai Fashion Week accessory exhibition SHOWROOM MODE Shanghai Fashion Apparel Show, this season also explored new ideas, regardless of professional, commercial or interesting, it showed a look of anticipation.

Like the numerous gardens, MODE Shanghai Fashion Show combines fashion ideas with no geographical, cultural or identity boundaries. In the rapid growth, each SHOWROOM has gradually formed a unique symbolic feature, positioning is more clear. In this issue, continuing the cooperation between the previous quarter and Shanghai Fashion Week, invited F to 36 SHOWROOM in the MODE (main venue). Over 600 domestic and foreign brands brought everyone 10 selection notices and several designers A simple interview. About MODE Shanghai Clothing & Accessories Fair, this time, let's focus on these:

1. THISNORTHAT(TANC showroom)

It is neither the so-called street style nor the cool and minimalist design. Just as the Chinese name of “THISNORTHAT” is also expressed in plain meaning, if you want to define a style for them, they will answer: “Not too. ”

This fashion brand that has been established for less than two years is gaining more and more attention, fashionable design, relaxed attitude, and high-quality visual effects that appear every season. It captures a lot of people's hearts. THISNORTHAT has also been continuing its own unique and easy design method. It also understands the attitude of young people and is therefore more in line with the demands of young people.

The design of THISNORTHAT is based on unisex. It does not deliberately emphasize gender, and the relaxed and casual style is easier to control. This season, the designer took the attitude of enjoying the moment as the theme, rendering the beauty of life in the design, so the entire series of perceptions are bright and rich. In terms of design, there are many special cuts, and some special materials are also used. There are many unique designs in the details. In addition, interesting patterns and prints are added, not only visually but also more visually. Rich, it also presents a THISNORTHAT unique sense of fashion.

Dialog THISNORTHAT

F: I'm glad to interview you again. What's the biggest gain in the past six months?

THISNORTHAT: Nice to talk to you again. The biggest achievement from the results, we entered the London market, studio london collection is a very good buyer shop, we are also very fortunate to work with them. In the domestic market, we also entered several very good regional buyers. From the perspective of brand growth, it is gratifying that we have been working hard to promote the brand, which is a great encouragement for ourselves and our customers. There is also more and more recognition and support.

F: Use a paragraph to describe the image of your ideal customer.

THISNORTHAT: She is a person who knows exactly what she wants. The bit of life is the source of her inspiration. There is an article that does not deal with work and life. The fashion taste of things comes entirely from her own personality and self-cultivation. A confident, but low-key, principled but interesting independent woman.

F: If you don't do any clothing any day, what do you think you will try?

Bo: I feel like I can't live without clothing. I can't think of what I would do in my mind for the time being.

Chen: Going around the world to find interesting designs. After the collection, you may organize or open a store to promote these designs.

2. RODERIC WONG (TANC showroom)

The first impression of RODERIC WONG was cool and sharp. Unlike most cool, minimalist styles, RODERIC WONG's simplicity is extremely neat. It does not bother the design and emphasizes the female's body curve. There is no other. Redundant decoration. Plus the whole series is dominated by cool colors, giving people a feeling of strength.

RODERIC WONG was founded only last year and has created an impressive brand image in a short period of time, relying on the designer's precise grasp of style. As a high-end clothing line, RODERIC WONG also combines materials technology and technological innovation that designers have always focused on. Many new fabrics are used in the design, and at the same time, emphasis is placed on the physical wearability and matchability of individual items.

3, I: MWHOIM (showroom YA)

I: MWHOIM's brand name is worth scrutinizing. It consists essentially of a short sentence composed of I: M who IM, whose prototype is "I am who I am" and the Chinese meaning is "I am myself". This symbolizes a strong self-identity and is a consistent brand tenet of I:MWHOIM.

Designer Ma Sikai believes that clothes are not only a collection of products made of fibers, but also people's understanding of their own and their recognition of the world's values. Therefore, she desires to bring a deeper level of spiritual joy to wearers. . Do not follow the trend, just follow what the heart thinks, and each season's inspiration story hopes to enrich people's spiritual and material world through the second layer of the body's skin.

I: MWHOIM has expanded its interpretation of the brand style “Cool-Chic” with the 2017 Autumn/Winter collection. The minimalist style, the high-grade soft color scheme, and the retro-embellishment are not artificial. The overall tailoring and styling are very neat. It not only explains the elegant side of women, but also covers the more straightforward and neutral side.

Conversation I: MWHOIM

F: What's the difference between the several showrooms that I've participated in?

I:MWHOIM: I have participated in about 3 showrooms. I feel that the difference between the showrooms is still very big. It's like the brand. In fact, each showroom is also doing its own brand. Some of the showrooms I think are real. For the benefit of the designer, but there are some that may give me a feeling more like the landlords to collect land rents, and more like real estate developers.

F: In the United States to teach the students to the United States, I feel that the children of the fashion department need to be improved?

I: MWHOIM: Teaching this book in school is actually quite interesting. I also wanted to take this opportunity to learn about the logic and ideas of the new generation and the way of life. Through the conversation with them, I found that the influence of the mainstream media today is really unexpected. The effect of brainwashing is particularly noticeable. This was beyond my expectation. I thought that the new generation will have more of their own. Insights, but I have found that the torrents of the times and the information explosion are mostly negative impacts on them. They may be more likely to expect faster and more direct results. They do not value the process of exploration, perhaps because they are young. But maybe this is what the time created.

"The best time is the worst time," and it's really good.

F: Share your favorite designers. What is the best place for you to learn on them?

I:MWHOIM: My favorite designers are Dries van Noten and Nicolas Ghesquière

The good designers I think in my heart do not follow the trend of the so-called trend. They should have their own very strong style. These two should be regarded as the maverick designers in the trend of the times. They have been sticking to their own Style, not shouting or arrogant, but every time when they see their works can strongly feel their passion and all the illusions put on clothes. Every line is well thought out. That feeling can't be said, but watching it can be very exciting.

I think their merits may not be easy to learn because they are unique geniuses.

4, Moi.LeRoi (showroom YA)

Moi.LeRoi's designer Syanne graduated from the New York Institute of Fashion (FIT), and her graduation project was selected to participate in the special edition of Vogue Italia Christopher Uvenio Teabook. Syanne had an internship at MO&CO's retail department during her studies and also worked in companies such as Jill Stuart, RHIE, and Charles Warren after graduation. Several stages of her work experience made her realize that a ready-to-wear designer must first understand the market to design consumption. His favorite works, based on considerations that are more in line with the market and fit women's needs, began preparations for the designer brand Moi.LeRoi in New York in 2016.

Designer Syanne has this attitude towards fashion: “It is not chasing but creating.” She hopes that every woman can find her own style design in Moi.LeRoi, so the different face of women in life has become The inspiration and source of her design.

Being serious and busy in the workplace, you can spend time in the cafe during your leisure time. Sometimes you need to dress up for an appointment. Sometimes you just want to dress comfortably. Syanne is designed for different situations of women. Stylish and unique items, there are many easy-to-wear simple models. But no matter what kind of style, it is inseparable from the design concept of Moi.LeRoi: independent female attitude, but without losing the soft side.

In the design of Moi.LeRoi, many simple and structured cuttings are used, and many styles emphasize curves. The soft and tough can appear in a single shape. It is a modern city. The characteristics of women. In terms of color, Moi.LeRoi uses mostly softer tones, incorporates some special patterns, highlights the details in the details, and maintains a good sense of style on the basis of simplicity and texture.

5. DAMIR DOMA (IGFD showroom)

Designer Damir Doma founded the designer's eponymous brand in 2006. Damir Doma's style has always been poetic and melancholy, and his design gives people the same feeling. Loose outlines, flowing forms, and detailed designs are complex and delicate.

In autumn and winter of 2017, as the designer's second co-edition series, Damir Doma chose to use a more romantic language to interpret. The iconic loose profile, the design has increasingly blurred the boundaries of gender. The silk and velvet used in large areas added a feminine sensation, while the increased irregular holes were designed in reverse, with a slight sense of desolateness, creating a subtle contrast and making the whole series more tense.

* This season's fashion week, SIFS international brand release, DAMIR DOMA will be held on April 10 at the Shanghai Exhibition Center 2017 autumn and winter works released.

6. Act n°1 (HIVE showroom)

Founded in 2016, the Italian women's brand Act n°1 won the attention of VOGUE Italy at the beginning of its creation. During 2016 Milan Fashion Week, the Act n°1 2017 S/S series was selected by VOGUE and participated in “Vogue Talent”. Corner" activity.

The design concept of the brand originated from the designer's diverse cultural background and life experiences. This season, the designer drew inspiration from his childhood and the ancient Chinese art of his home, depicting a gloomy world with a unique perspective. The velvet fabric used extensively in the design creates a gorgeous retro, adding many large areas of oriental element pattern embroidery, and the exquisite craftsmanship is unforgettable. Another design can also be found in a number of webbing decorations, streamlined design, casually drape down and clothes into one, forming a more loose visual effects.

The combination of traditional aesthetics and modern design reveals a peculiar beauty that is unique to Act n°1.

7. YOUPPIE! (HIVE showroom)

Interesting, unique, cool, is everyone's first impression of YOUPPIE!. Every season of YOUPPIE! is a process of finding interesting ways to wear. Whether it is an exaggerated silhouette, a mosaic of multiple collisions, or an emphasizing visual print, it is creating an unconventional atmosphere. As the highly experimental designer brand in the HIVE showroom, YOUPPIE! also designed overalls for Shanghai Fashion Week.

YOUPPIE!'s designer Melon Xu has preferred a bold and exaggerated style since his school days. He specializes in fabric reconstruction and pattern design. He likes street culture. He likes to use a lot of elements such as color, stitching, and asymmetry in his designs. Designer Melon Xu hopes to emphasize visual effects with tailoring, fabrics, and colors. It is fun and arrogant and even absurd. It doesn't define style or logic.

YOUPFIE! 2017 F/W, the color tone of the autumn and winter series is relatively calm, but there are still bright colors such as bright yellow, meat powder, and sky blue. Among them, there is a group of red and black hitting colors, and the visual effect is strong. Long sleeves with knees and open-leg wide-leg pants that exaggerate the ground are still emphasizing the exaggerated outlines. Double-backed trench coats, stackable trousers and skirts are all fun combinations.

It is worth mentioning that this time the designers still used a large area of ​​printing, which also included quite a playful Chinese printing, meaningless and illogical. Such words are compared to YOUPIEIE's cynical attitude. Against the background, combined with those impressive design, more interesting.

Conversation YOUPPIE!

F: YOUPPIE! What is the story of this brand's logo?

YOUPPIE!: YOUPPIE! is similar to Chinese in Chinese, “wow, wonderful” and “surprise”. I hope people who receive our clothes can see YOUPPIE! or wear YOUPPIE! feel. Slogan and stay with me below the logo. The English literal translation is "mean with me." In fact, for me, it has the meaning of "never leaves." Just like YOUPPIE! Always conveys the brand's attitude. At the beginning, keep your mind.

F: Which of YOUPIE!'s many design series is your favorite?

YOUPPIE!: I like the Disney series of the 15 autumn and winter seasons, and the 16-year-old favorite killer series. Every year, there is a favorite, which is what we have worked hard to design and like.

F: Send a word to boys and girls who like fashion

YOUPPIE!: Stay hungry, stay foolish.

8, N12H (TUDOO showroom)

N12H is an American women's brand established in 2013. The brand is named after a New York apartment and is also where the N12H was born.

Designer Nerissa was born in Los Angeles, grew up in Sydney and Hong Kong, and lived in New York, Tokyo, London and Hong Kong for many years.

Due to her exposure to different urban and cultural growth experiences, Neriss described her brand as "modern clothes designed for urban girls who love to travel." N12H's girls lived stylishly and refinedly, with a touch of sensuality, grace and elegance.

As a new brand, N12H has attracted the attention and favor of stylists and celebrities everywhere, including Gigi Hadid, Taylor Swift and Jessica Alba. It is currently sold in more than 15 countries, with major sales points including Asos, Anthropologie, La Rinascente and Rose Bud.

9, LAUTEM (MEDSMADE showroom)

As a "non-niche" Spanish minority designer brand, everyone should be no stranger to LAUTEM, or that must have seen his most classic "meal box package", Emma Watson, Solange Knowles and other stars are Once came with this bag.

Brand founder Elena is an architect, and this is why Lautem's bags look so architectural. The complete retro industrial style, each line is visibly sturdy, portable metal frame and package body constitutes a changeable geometric space, concise and modern architectural aesthetics, very recognizable.

Lautem's brand name comes from the Latin word Lautē, which is roughly the meaning of pursuing excellence. Therefore, Lautem always maintains the concept of “less quantity and finesse”, and takes the custom route. The designers even use the local finest calfskin from Spain to make the package. The artisanal craftsmen are all excavated from Uffrik, the birthplace of leather craftsmanship. The meticulous craftsmanship combined with the style is more of a craft.

Although Lautem's awareness has become higher and higher, it is still relatively small. If you want to avoid the clamor of hitting the bag and have high quality requirements, Lautem is the most suitable choice.

10. INCOMPLETE (YIVVAN showroom)

At the end of 2013, Demon Studio, through analysis of domestic and foreign handbags and related overseas markets, saw the relatively vacant handbag category with “design and quality” in the domestic market, and found that the younger generation’s consumer groups recognized the increasingly mature original brand. In the past, the “LOGO consumption concept” was changing, and it was willing to simply pay for design and quality. From this opportunity, INCOMPLETE was founded.

INCOMPLETE, which means "a complete sense of incompleteness", pursues a "meticulous and casual" lifestyle. Designers start with a sense of culture and draw lessons from the traditional handbag industry. They balance the culture and the design. They hope that they will not only have a fashionable sense of design, but also will not be contrary to the traditional aesthetic.

Brand designer ANDREW YEN has more than 10 years of experience in leather handcrafting and has participated in the design of many famous brands. In INCOMPLETE's design, you can see many seemingly random geometric arrangement of the mosaic, stylish color collision, a strong sense of style, enough to become a focus of a match. This season INCOMPLETE takes "Why so serious" as its slogan, it is a relaxed and casual look, and different packages can be used with various shapes of different occasions. Inadvertently looking stylish - this is INCOMPLETE want to bring everyone.

Conversation INCOMPLETE

F: Compared to fashion and footwear, the original brand of domestic handbags is relatively scarce. What advantages and disadvantages do you think INCOMPLETE brings?

INCOMPLETE: In fact, there are still some original brand handbags in the country that have been quietly cultivating, we are decent to be relatively late. The emergence of INCOMPLETE hopes to enrich this scarce category and give consumers more options that are truly original. The advantage of scarcity is that we are more likely to be discovered and concerned. The disadvantage is that in the face of the so-called "niche" pressure, we must devote more time to gaining market recognition.

F: The design of INCOMPLETE is young and fashionable. In your opinion, what kind of young people is INCOMPLETE's main consumer group?

INCOMPLETE: Not necessarily young people like INCOMPLETE. As long as they are original and feel full of vitality, they are the consumer groups we target.

F: The competition for domestic original brand is increasingly fierce. In such a market atmosphere, what is INCOMPLETE stand out from?

INCOMPLETE: There is competition for better products to consumers. INCOMPLETE style changes, but the most important thing is to maintain an original attitude.

As the most important and largest fashion week in China, Shanghai Fashion Week carries too many designer dreams. MODE is more than a show on the show floor, providing these designers with more opportunities for direct contact with consumers and buyers. It also gives us room to grow with them.

"New", if it is a label under MODE, but because of young people, it also has more possibilities. The 10 brands chosen today are not enough to represent MODE. There are still many unknown and interesting ones waiting to be discovered.