Summary:

At the age of 41, Zhao Junhao, a veteran in the fashion industry, made a decision that looked a bit silly.

After 21 years of deep plowing in the traditional clothing industry, he suddenly withdrew himself from the need to build a B2B platform for the industry to integrate flexible supply chains.

Prior to this, his resume was all the same. At the age of 29, he had already blossomed in nine department stores; at the age of 31, he joined G-STAR and brought the brand to China, setting an annual turnover of nearly 1.4 billion yuan; independent After starting its business, it joined forces with IDG, a veteran investment company, to acquire the Japanese street fashion brand EVISU China Co., Ltd. for US$8 million. At present, the company has a valuation of US$200 million.

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Every step seems to be smooth and smooth. Why change the track? It is said that, including its investors, IDG partners Zhou Quan initially listened to his ideas, they are persuaded: Why do you go so hard? Buy foreign brands, and then Toss and sell, how happy.

Zhao Junhao said that if he does this, if he does, it is possible to create a great company, just like Hongkong Li & Fung in the industry.

In January 2015, the chain was established in Shanghai.

New consumer trends: explosion style micro, personality in power

Prior to starting the business, Zhao Junhao had noticed a change: China's garment industry is shifting from a blocky market to fragmentation.

He studied the Lishi, a Hong Kong-based company in the industry. This 100-year-old company, which provides supply for the global blocky market, is the largest supply chain management service provider in the world. Its valuation was as high as more than 100 billion Hong Kong dollars, but now it has fallen to less than 30 billion. However, its actual sales have only declined slightly. Zhao Junhao analyzed that changes in valuations suggest that capital has lowered its future expectations for the block market.

This is why Li Ning and other brands are in trouble. The era of the owner of a branded service has passed away, and now is the time for individuality.

Taobao explosion model is the most intuitive commentary.

A few years ago, Taobao's last explosion could sell thousands or even tens of thousands. Zhao Junhao is not surprised by this. As early as 2000 or so, he saw the exaggeration of offline explosions: Giordano introduced a popular down jacket at the time, which was about 699 yuan. The store had a float and piled down jackets. He personally witnessed the sale of a few thousand pieces a day in a single shop, and Shanghai's daily sales of 80,000 mania.

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However, in the last two years, more and more designer models and personalized clothing have appeared on Taobao, such as the Internet brand Handu Clothing House, which has more than 70 sub-brands. This multi-brand operation just caters to the individual needs of different groups.

The online fashion brand DangerousPeople, founded by Xue Zhiqian, had sales of 34 million yuan last year. Wu Yifan, the person in charge of the operation, said that customers use personal expressions of life attitudes, such as this year's popular “bad to wear clothes”, the designer will pull down the shoulder line of the sweater, creating a small sense of decadence; a pair of jeans, knees to do The exaggerated treatment of the hole can show up.

In response to the customer's individual needs, her team developed a massive new marketing strategy. The Tmall shop had to put up 30 to 40 new models each month, and each model sold for only about 500 pieces. There are more editions and less quantity, which is also the standard of Zara and other fast fashion brands.

According to Zhao Junhao's estimation, the proportion of personalized clothing in China currently accounts for 15% of the industry, but in mature markets such as Japan and Hong Kong, personalized clothing accounts for 40 to 50%. It is concluded that there is still great potential in the Chinese market.

Experts attribute the popularity of personalization to consumption upgrades. However, according to Zhao Junhao, this concept is not new.

He remembered that as early as 2005 to 2008, the Chinese clothing industry experienced the first large-scale consumption upgrade, and the market monopolized from a single brand and developed into multi-brand competition.

Before 2005, the country was almost dominated by Taiwanese clothing and Hong Kong clothing. The latter were Giordano and Benny. At that time, the trend was to dress in the same simple style. After 2005, the market entered ONLY, VEROMODA and other brands, and the Japanese and Korean departments, European and American apparels flourished.

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In the 21-year career timeline, Zhao Junhao noticed that the fashion trends in China were basically an iteration of five years, and they repeated back and forth between color and black and white, complexity and simplicity, and sports and personalization. The successive successes of G-STAR and EVISU are stepping on the right time.

By 2014, the point of interest of this “buyer” was no longer “stepping on the right spot” but involved in the entire industry chain. Because of changes in the consumer side, the supply side will be forced to make changes. At the time, the supply side of the clothing industry was too old and formed a fault with fashion.

Before starting the business, he also visited a world of sacred places such as Paris and Milan, and discovered that foreign countries also lacked a modern supply chain.

Buyer troubled

The chain is still building an internet platform with face-to-face material transactions as the entry point.

Personalized conduction to the supply chain is the fragmentation of surface accessories orders. Small and medium-sized buyers need to quickly find suppliers.

As the founder and CEO of the chain, Zhao Junhao studied the pain points of the industry very early. The links involved in offline transactions, such as long-distance purchase, asymmetric information of supply and demand, and opaque transaction processes, have many shortcomings and inefficient operation procedures. Complicated.

Zhao Shanghao, the founder and CEO of Chain Chain, frankly stated that he was only looking for a fabric search platform, which was too shallow.

Shenzhen Kaixin Fashion (Note: Mia Nuo) Purchasing Director Zheng Zhengyi has always been troubled by looking for a version. Their work must compete against time. Usually, the production cycle under the clothing line is only two to three months, and the line is tighter and will be controlled within one month.

When the designer came up with a design, the board-hunter went around. Some fabrics are hard to find, at least a week. If the specified time is exhausted and no matching fabrics have been found, the design concept will be greatly reduced.

Mr. Zheng also encountered a situation of unstable fabric quality. Fabrics are non-standardized products. If the returned products are reworked, tossing back and forth for half a month, the last second of light is consumed. This is for companies with annual sales of nearly 2 billion yuan. "Specially scary."

And if you first introduce a similar model, the blow will be even greater. A net red shop owner said that one of his clothes was racked up at night for 5 days, resulting in a loss of 200,000 yuan.

After Mr. Zheng’s trial of chain Shangshang.com, he received a reply from the founder in a day or two.

Zhao Junhao introduced that through the online platform, when purchasing commercial products, it can be compressed to the original 1/3, and the purchasing efficiency can be increased by 10 times.

It is reported that shortly after the establishment of the chain, IDG Capital received 50 million yuan in round A investment. In April 2016, the chain announced the completion of the B round of 15 million U.S. dollars in financing, and Huachuang Capital led the investment, followed by IDG Capital.

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detour

However, the chain still did not go smoothly at first, and even made a mistake. This is also the tuition fee that most startup companies pay in the initial period.

An executive commented that the founder started as a brand, so when he first started working as a platform, he did not fully understand what a supply chain service was.

Zhao Junhao himself admitted that he did not understand the Internet at the beginning and he had been detouring for nearly a year. When the company was just established in March 2015, they took a look at the "find" word in the ToB field and tried to make a "find stencil" for the surface accessories industry.

Six months later, he found that this road was not reliable. He reorganized the company almost in the way of dissolution. 90% of employees were replaced and partners were also opened. Before that, some people took the initiative to leave. The biggest blow to him was the co-founder of the time and a former executive of an e-commerce company.

Zhao Junhao once saw the other person as someone who would take himself out of the Internet. Seeing his comrade-in-arms retreat, he was once caught in a disorientation panic and mixed with abandonment. In just a few months, there was a large white hair.

He once rethought: To C mode, consumer behavior is generally consistent, you can refer to learning; ToB field, the industry is completely different ecology, steel and clothing are not the same, in the direction of business logic, the actual reference space is very small. "I would like to go eastwards in the past and I must study as a result. When I walked halfway, I discovered that I was going westward."

Realizing that he had to pick up the sickle himself and walk along with the thorns, the chain focused instead on the supply chain itself. In the early days of its establishment, its slogan was to become the world's largest trading platform for face and accessory materials. By March 2016, this single-handed, straight-thrilling approach was replaced by “combination boxing”.

“Only looking for a fabric search platform is too shallow.” Based on the perspective of the supply chain, Zhao Junhao positioned the chain as a platform to provide comprehensive services, that is, to open up four links: raw material procurement, manufacturing and processing, inspection and inspection, and safe delivery. Let the supply chain really "soft" up.

Compared with traditional institutions, the detection cycle of accessories opposite the chain is much shorter. The picture shows workers operating cloth inspection equipment.

The senior executives recalled that the company officially announced the transition in the summer of 2016. At that time, it had opened an internal expansion meeting to discuss “docking” and “safe payment”. Whether it met the needs of the mainstream market and whether it met the future trend?

The conclusion is that it is also necessary to build a safe delivery channel down the line.

The logic behind this is that all business processes are determined by the consumer. Consumers, especially the middle class, increasingly value quality and safety. Taking cotton shirts as an example, as long as 40 veils are available on the original material, it is now 80, 120, because the finer the yarn, the more comfortable it is to wear. Some merchants are also willing to pay for inspections and use quality and safety as the main tag of their products.

Fabric testing just became necessary. It was during this year that the government liberalized related inspection services for private enterprises, and the chain established two inspection sites in Guangzhou Zhongda and Shaoxing Keqiao. As of the end of March, the length of the fabric they tested was nearly 100 million meters.

There have been complaints from buyers that the traditional inspection efficiency, from the inspection of fabrics to the delivery of reports, generally takes five to seven days. However, the fashion pursuit of "fast", including some online red electricity providers, will choose to go first on the shelf, while selling side detection adventure, walk in the gray zone.

It is understood that the chain can still shorten the time to submit inspections to the electronic report. Future business imaginations also include the use of big data, pre-judgment of popular trends, and pushing relevant information to customers in advance to avoid overstocking or shortages.

Background data shows that the platform's customer retention rate reached 57%. At present, the compound monthly growth rate of the platform business is about 40%. This speed may not be fast in the ToC field, but it is considered to be an effective growth in the relatively slow To B field.

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How long can it shake the 3 trillion market?

Zhao Junhao is a data-oriented entrepreneur. The company has estimated that the platform transaction volume in 2017 is expected to exceed 13 billion yuan, and by 2018 it is expected to reach 40 billion yuan. However, he did not seem to be satisfied with this set of figures.

To be exact, in his opinion, this body weight, measured in the entire apparel industry, is considered “very bad”. According to his personal estimate, China's surface accessories account for about 1.3 trillion yuan in the market, plus manufacturing, processing, testing and other back-end supply, the entire apparel market is about 3 trillion yuan.

This data is similar to that of Chen Dapeng, executive vice president of the China Garment Association. Accepted

During the interview, Chen Dapeng estimated that the size of China's garment industry is more than 2.5 trillion yuan.

With reference to past cases, when the platform trading volume accounts for at least 10% of the industry, it is possible to shake up the industry and drive the industry to improve in an efficient manner. According to this calculation, the chain still has to achieve at least 250 billion yuan.

At present, it seems that there should be a long journey.

Zhao Junhao compared the process to repairing the tower. The past fashion brand acquisition experience, like "wave by wave", but the fashion "wave", come fast, go fast; repair tower is another rhythm. Even before the ground was exposed to the ground, others did not understand what you were trying to do. They only had to get bored and step up to solidify the foundation. He hopes that he will no longer work for earning money in the next 10 years, but will change the entire industry.

Chain still can only focus on raw material procurement, fabric testing two links. However, the team has begun to cooperate with Amoy Factory and Tmall to empower the processing and production process.

According to incomplete statistics, there are at least 100,000 small factories under 100 in China in the grey area. They make more end orders or OEMs for large factories. Zhao Junhao conceives that in the future, he can refer to the mode of sharing trips, integrate these scattered resources, and change the status quo of his lack of orders through the platform, so that the small factories can be formalized, just like the black car is getting better.

In his view, the chain is still the most perfect application scenario is: a designer holding a computer, he can complete his design work, can choose surface materials, match factory production, test clothing, and then through logistics, Clothing directly to the customer.

"To B's business venture is not as dazzling as ToC, but once it is completed, it will be a very great thing."

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